Quiz: which car suits you?
Answer six questions and we will suggest a body type and a powertrain. It takes less than a minute.
Step 1. Set a realistic budget
The price tag is only part of what a car costs. The total cost of ownership includes:
- Depreciation — the value the car loses over time (often the biggest cost of a new car).
- Fuel or electricity — use our running-cost calculator.
- Insurance — can be very expensive for young drivers and powerful cars. Get quotes before you buy.
- Taxes and registration — often based on engine size, CO₂ or power.
- Maintenance, tyres and repairs — premium brands cost more to service.
- Parking, tolls, cleaning.
Rule of thumb: keep your total monthly car costs (payment + insurance + fuel + maintenance) under about 10–15% of your monthly take-home income. Many advisers suggest a down payment of at least 20% and a loan no longer than 4–5 years.
Step 2. New, used or leasing?
| New | Used (2–5 years) | Leasing / subscription | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | Highest | 30–50% cheaper | No big upfront cost |
| Depreciation | Heavy in years 1–3 | Much slower | Not your problem |
| Warranty | Full (3–7 years) | Partial or none | Full |
| Risk | Lowest | Hidden problems possible | Mileage limits, damage charges |
| You own it? | Yes | Yes | No |
For most beginners, a well-maintained 2–5-year-old car with full service history offers the best value. Certified pre-owned (CPO) programmes from dealers add a warranty for extra peace of mind.
Step 3. Research models
- Safety ratings — check crash tests from Euro NCAP (Europe), IIHS and NHTSA (USA), ANCAP (Australia), Latin NCAP or ASEAN NCAP. Aim for 4–5 stars.
- Reliability — read owner reviews and reliability surveys; search “[model] common problems”.
- Running costs — real-world fuel economy, parts prices, insurance group.
- Resale value — popular models with good reputations lose value more slowly.
- Must-have safety features — autonomous emergency braking (AEB), ESC, six or more airbags, ISOFIX for child seats.
Step 4. Test-drive checklist
Before driving
- Can you find a comfortable driving position?
- Good visibility? Check blind spots.
- Enough room in the back and in the boot for your stuff (bring a child seat or a pram if you use one)?
- Are the controls and screen easy to use?
On the road
- Drive on your usual roads: city, highway, bumps.
- Listen for noise: wind, tyres, engine.
- Brakes: straight and progressive, no vibration.
- Gearbox: smooth shifts, no jerks or slipping.
- Park it — is it easy?
Step 5. Used-car inspection checklist
- Check the history by VIN: accidents, mileage records, theft, outstanding finance (Carfax, AutoCheck, HPI and national registries).
- Service book and receipts — regular oil changes are a very good sign.
- Mileage consistency — worn pedals, steering wheel and seats should match the odometer.
- Body — uneven panel gaps, different paint shades or overspray suggest accident repair. Look for rust under the doors and wheel arches.
- Tyres — uneven wear can mean alignment or suspension problems.
- Engine cold start — ask the seller not to warm it up. Watch for smoke, knocking or warning lights.
- Fluids — oil should not be milky; coolant should not be oily.
- Electronics — test every window, light, A/C, screen and camera.
- For EVs and hybrids — ask for a battery health (SoH) report.
- Get an independent inspection at a garage — the best money you can spend.
Red flags and scams
Walk away if the seller refuses an inspection, the price is far below market, the name on the documents doesn’t match, they ask for a deposit before you’ve seen the car, or they insist on meeting “somewhere convenient” instead of their home or business address. Never pay by untraceable money transfer.
Step 6. Negotiate and complete the purchase
- Know the market price for the exact model, year, mileage and trim.
- Use any defects you found as a reason to negotiate.
- Negotiate the total price, not only the monthly payment.
- Compare financing from your bank with the dealer’s offer.
- Read the contract carefully; refuse add-ons you don’t need.
- Arrange insurance and registration before driving away.
FAQ
What is the best first car for a young driver?
A small, well-rated hatchback or compact crossover with a modest engine (70–130 hp): cheap to insure, easy to park and forgiving. Look for AEB and good crash-test ratings.
How many kilometres is “too many” for a used car?
Condition and service history matter more than the number. A regularly serviced car with 150,000 km can be healthier than a neglected one with 60,000 km. Average use is 12,000–20,000 km per year.
When is the best time to buy?
Dealers often offer better deals at the end of a month, quarter or year, and when a new generation of a model is about to arrive.
Is it safe to buy an older EV?
Yes, if the battery health is good. Most EV batteries lose only 1–2% of capacity per year, and many carry an 8-year battery warranty. Always ask for a battery report.